Do you remember back in the day when facial oils first made their way into our skincare regimes?
I remember it being over a decade ago when it was popularised in K-beauty to create a dewy complexion. The main hurdle for facial oil being implemented into our everyday skincare routine was breaking the stigma that ‘oils will make you oilier’ – a myth that has well and truly been busted over the years. Now, facial oils have gained so much traction that nearly every skincare brand has released a facial oil touting their formula is best. The only problem is, how do we actually know which one is the best for our skin?
From a scientific standpoint, our skin responds to chemicals and the results are dependent on how well the formula can communicate with our skin cells and accommodate the nutrition that it’s lacking in. We talk to Biologi Founder and Cosmetic Chemist Ross Macdougald to find out once and for all, which facial oil rises above the rest.
Marula, cacay and kukui seed – exotic oils are all the rage at the moment but in reality, every oil contains the same fatty acids, just at different percentages. It’s simply deciding how the omega 3, 6, and 9 are in proportion to each other. Our skin is made up of linoleic and alpha linoleic acid and responds best to topical oils that are high in these two but with low-fat content.
“In my opinion, the oil that is best for lipid dry skin is Rosehip oil. Ideally, you would go for a light oil that contains good percentages of oleic, linoleic and alpha-linoleic acid and funnily enough- that is rosehip oil which is the most common oil in this market and is well priced,” Ross says.
Rosehip Oil delivers a potent synergy of oil-soluble actives required for skin health. It’s gentle enough to use on sensitised skin types but powerful enough to achieve maximum results. “It harnesses the pure power of Rosa canina, which is rich in natural oil soluble vitamins and essential fatty acids that promote the skin’s internal hydration and protective processes to support healthy cellular turnover,” Ross explains. “Rosa canina seed has regenerative botanical activity which most closely resembles the skin’s fatty acid profile. The potent combination of fatty acids in Rosehip oil provides undiluted and unaltered goodness for your skin, straight from the seed of the plant,” he praises.
How do I choose the best rosehip oil?
You would assume that rosehip oil is just rosehip oil, but in fact, not all rosehip oil is made equal. There are several types that are available on the market. The colour of unrefined rosehip oil is orange and the smell is quite earthy, and can sometimes smell a bit fishy. If there’s no smell or if it’s fragranced, then the oil has been refined, meaning the potency will be reduced and the results will prove to be not as effective.
The orange hue shows that the rosehip oil is rich in vitamin A (carotene) which is essential as an anti-aging ingredient. “It plays a role in ceramide formation – a substance that keeps the walls of skin cells strong so they can better retain moisture… It can also help reduce the signs of ageing by smoothing fine lines and thickening the dermis (deeper skin layers), making the skin feel firmer and tighter,” Ross claims. Rosehip oil works wonders as a moisturiser and also has the ability to improve the appearance and texture of scars due to the fatty acid content and how they can rebuild skin cells post-injury.
Here are our top facial oil picks that harness the power of pure rosehip oils:
Words: Sophie Chung