New Zealand natural fragrance house Abel has never shied away from a challenge, and the release of the brand’s newest scent, Black Anise, delivers an entirely unexpected direction for the plant-based perfumery.
This intriguing fragrance is darker, moodier, and more sultry than anything that has come out of the Abel walls previously. It’s also deliciously complex and breaks conventions by showing that natural perfume can be dark, rich, and deep.
The impressive Black Anise will be replacing Grey Labdanum within the Vita Odor core range in accordance with Abel’s ‘one in, one out’ commitment.
Made in creative partnership with Master Perfumer Isaac Sinclair whom Abel founder Frances Shoemack has worked with on all Vita Odor fragrances since the brand’s establishment, the goal was to break category conventions and deliver something more chic and nuanced than what is usually found in plant-based perfumery.
Black Anise will likely appeal to those attracted to the non-toxic ingredient palette but looking for a scent profile that is rich, strong, and sexy.
Black Anise is a vibrant, smoky Amber, with star anise top notes, a black currant and cacao heart, and a tobacco base.
“When we launched Abel, the mission was to reinvent natural perfume, to rid it of its 1970s patchouli hangover, and show that in pairing unique combinations of ingredients with innovative biotech, naturals can be distinct, modern, and elevated,” says Shoemack.
“In the last few years, we’ve seen a broader range of conscious consumers seeking alternative perfumes. I truly think Black Anise will shift those who’ve decided against a natural perfume before in their tracks and make them think twice.”
The scent
“As in any creative pursuit, there comes a time when you find yourself wanting to push the boundaries, to see if you can play right at the edges and surprise everyone,” says Abel master perfumer Isaac Sinclair.
“Naturals have an (often misguided) reputation for being simple, subtle, and organic-smelling. While every ingredient in Black Anise is natural, the very deliberate selection of dense, powerful notes such as tobacco and star anise and their pairing with a rich fruit accord of cherry and cassis makes for a dynamic, long-lasting and distinctive scent. “
One in one out
In introducing Black Anise to their core fragrance collection of seven scents, Abel will, as part of their strict ‘one in, one out’ philosophy, remove the 2017 addition Grey Labdanum from production.
“We’re very intentional in what we create. The very reason we work with naturals is to minimise toxicity to us and the environment. The planet is already overwhelmed with ‘stuff’. It’s a core founding principle that whenever we release something new into the collection; it must be good enough to replace an existing favourite. It forces us to slow down, really deliver excellence, and minimise excess,” says Shoemack.
“While it’s always sad to see a perfume go, the Grey Labdanum fans loved it for its edginess, and we expect them to be drawn to the rule-breaking attitude of Black Anise in the same way.”
Black Anise is available in 50ml and 15ml Eau de Parfum at abelodor.com and from Abel’s selection of global stockists spanning more than 25 countries.