Terri Vinson, skin scientist, cosmetic chemist and founder of Synergie Skin breaks down the hype around Skin Cycling, taking a closer look at the viral trend and sharing some advice about the pros and cons.
Developed by dermatologist, Dr Whitney Bowe, the Skin Cycling method has existed for some years and has since become a viral beauty trend all over TikTok.
Dr Bowe originally created the Skin Cycling method in response to a high volume of patients coming into her clinic with a mismatched array of self-prescribed skincare products and asking her to explain the order and frequency in which they should apply them on a weekly basis.
Her strategic advice was to cycle – or stagger – the usage of active skincare products in order to achieve greater tolerance to active ingredients and thus better results. But is this method a catch-all for every skin type? Does every active ingredient really need to be cycled?
Like all viral trends, it is often wise to take the hype with a pinch of salt, and Skin Cycling is no different.
While there are some products I advocate for cycling, there are many active skincare products that I firmly believe are daily essentials, which would be completely illogical for anyone to omit from their nightly skincare routine.
So how does Skin Cycling work? When is it helpful? When is it not so helpful? Let’s find out.
What is Skin Cycling?
In a nutshell, Skin Cycling reorganises your skincare routine into a four-night rotation that alternates the usage of active and inactive ingredients. This approach is intended to minimise the risk of irritation by allowing the skin to have periods of rest and recovery, which should, in theory, improve the overall efficacy of your evening routine.
How does Skin Cycling work?
Skin Cycling usually starts with an exfoliation night, followed by a retinoid night and, finally, two nights for recovery, before doing the whole thing over again. This skincare cycling routine is a four-night cycle as follows:
Night #1: Exfoliation Night
This step is designed to give your skin an immediate glow while laying the foundation to get the most out of the following night’s routine Night #2. During Night #1, you would use an exfoliating product to unclog pores, remove dead skin cells sitting on the surface, and brighten skin overnight. Exfoliating can also send feedback messages to the deep dermal layers of the skin to produce collagen, creating a scaffold that helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
Night #2: Retinoid Night
The rationale behind this next step is that most skin types struggle to tolerate retinoids every night, so the ‘skin cyclist’ advice is to introduce retinoids more successfully via the cycling routine. However, it is important to note here that the root cause for skin irritation is not always dependent on retinoids in and of themselves, as inflammation can also occur when users mistakenly layer their retinoids in conjunction with other reactive ingredients or use types of retinoids that are too strong for their skin type. I’ll cover this in more detail further on.
Night #3 + Night #4: Recovery Nights
These two nights are dedicated to recovery, nourishing the skin microbiome, and repairing the barrier. The purpose behind this step is not to use any active products that would be seen to push the skin out of its comfort zone. After this, the user repeats the four-night steps: Exfoliation Night, Retinoid Night, Recover, Recover.
Terri’s take
So, what should we make of this advice? Overall, I believe this method to be generalised advice and not necessarily appropriate for well-educated skincare users. While the core intention behind Skin Cycling seems reasonable enough (particularly surrounding the importance of nourishing and supporting the skin barrier), I personally feel that there isn’t enough scientific nuance underpinning this trend in its current form, possibly due to the dilution/oversimplification of information that inevitably happens on social media.
Here are my specific reservations: first of all, when we think about ‘skin recovery’, it is easy to fall into the trap of forming an analogy between a skincare routine and a body workout routine.
Instead, we must recognise that using active skincare is not at all the same as putting your muscles through a workout at the gym because not all active skincare is applying stress to the skin barrier. Thus, not all active skincare requires any kind of recovery period whatsoever. In fact, there are many ingredients that your skin will greatly benefit from receiving each and every day (more on this later).
Secondly, a Skin Cycling routine is not a ‘one-size-fits-all’ model for all skincare routines. When Synergie Skin prescribes a routine via our Skin Quiz and consultations, we are already taking into account which products should be used in the morning and evening and precisely how often. As a result, the choice to abstain from using beneficial active cosmetics from your routine every four days can be quite often redundant and even counterproductive to your personal skin goals.
Thirdly, when it comes to retinoids and other essential actives such as vitamin C, prebiotics, postbiotics, and vitamin B3, it is scientifically verified that the majority of skin improvements come from the daily use of these products, as long as the skin barrier is healthy and strong to begin with.
Of course, skin sensitivity and tolerance should always be taken into account when devising a healthy skincare routine. It is vital to select the correct retinoid serum, exfoliation products, and barrier-repairing products based on your skin’s individual needs and concerns. There are many resources that can assist you in forming the perfect skincare routine without needing to resort to Skin Cycling, which leads me to my next point:
How to nail your routine without Skin Cycling
If you buy skincare products based solely on trends, you will inevitably be confused by how to slot each product into your day and night routine. Most skincare professionals are clear on what products should be used morning and night and how often they should be used on the skin.
I would, therefore, highly recommend seeking a professional consultation or a virtual consultation to eliminate any possible confusion and streamline your skincare routine so that it is tailored specifically to your skin type and personal goals. This is by far the best path forward to achieving potent results.
From this vantage point, there is consequently no need for the Skin Cycling method of application, which will only serve to lessen the potency of your bespoke routine.
Once you have been prescribed the right skincare products that are appropriate to your skin type, I would then advise this daily schedule for application:
Morning: 1. Cleanse 2. Balance (light, water-based essences; balancers) 3. Serums (this includes vitamin C serums and exfoliants*. I always recommend applying from thinnest to thickest in consistency) 4. Eyecare 5. Day Moisturiser or face oil 6. Solar protection
*Exfoliants should be used in the morning two to three times weekly for most skin types. Those with a robust skin barrier who are experiencing moderate-to-severe acne or sun damage may be able to use acidic exfoliants daily until the condition resolves, provided the skin can tolerate the acidic formulation.
The recommendation of using exfoliants only at night is a myth. You can exfoliate in the morning provided you always sun protect during the day.
Evening: 1. Cleanse 2. Balance (light, water-based essences; balancers) 3. Serums (this includes your vitamin A/retinoid and B3/niacinamide serums. Again, apply from thinnest to thickest in consistency) 4. Eyecare 5. Evening moisturiser or face oil Weekly: 1. Face masks and other treatment products.
Terri Vinson is a cosmetic chemist and founder of Synergie Skin – a range of active cosmeceutical products, ethically formulated by harnessing the synergy of science and nature. Terri holds a Bachelor of Science (Immunology and Microbiology), a post-graduate Diploma of Formulating Chemistry, a Diploma of Education (Biology and Senior Science), and is a member of the Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists. As a world-recognised formulator, she is in demand as a lecturer in the field of cosmetic science and is also the author of Skinformation: A Clean Science Guide to Beautiful Skin. In addition, she is a senior formulating advisor for the Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science and the first non-doctor to be accepted on the Vogue Cosmetic Advisory Board.